Jay Fai didn’t win a Michelin star for its ambiance nor its hurried, rather brusque, service. And that just leaves the food—and there’s lots about it to commend. Lorded over by an agile, goggles-clad septuagenarian for whom its named, this popular street food eatery (the only establishment of its kind in Bangkok with a star) can get away with charging almost B1500 for an omelette, mainly because of what’s in it (600 grams of premium, fresh crab meat) and because people buy, even queue up, for it along with a plate of drunken seafood noodles in intensely flavored gravy.