Elegance and harmony define the menu at Gaa, where Chef Garima Arora, the first Indian female chef to earn a Michelin star, presents modern Indian fare that diverts from the usual staples that define her home country’s cuisine. While you do have curries and tandooris, they are tempered with unexpected ingredients, many of them Thai (like an amazing grilled durian); snacks are elevated to an art, and biryanis are delicate rather than tongue-burning affairs. What Gaa offers is culinary artistry that’s injected with warmth, expertise, and wickedly good fun.