Nowhere else delivers a comparable parade of Thai-Chinese dishes rammed with family traditions, locally sourced artisanal ingredients, house-made condiments, and a freewheeling roster of spices. Chef Pam Utharntham digs deep into her memory vault and her family’s Hokkien ancestry to create an expressive 20-course tasting menu that might pair shrimp yolk with morel mushrooms or use up various parts of a duck in a succession of stunning small plates.