Chef Thierry Drapeau has been a keeper of French comfort fare of a different kind, dressing up classic Gallic dishes as if they were mini gardens he had to cultivate. Signature’s brightly-lit dining room and handsome bar are welcome retreats for lobsters decorated with micro greens, amuse bouches on a bed of moss, or a rich chocolate egg in a bed of hay. While traditional flavors work here, it’s the whimsical presentation that truly captivates.